For gluten free travelers, especially celiac’s, Indonesia is not the easiest country to visit. Most dishes contain some form of soy, oyster and fish sauce, which do not necessarily contain gluten, but often do. However, traveling Indonesia while gluten free is not impossible and I would very much encourage everyone to book a trip here. This Indonesia Gluten Free Guide is therefore meant to help you navigate the country with as much ease as possible.
From general safety tips, to what to look out for and which Indonesian dishes are often gluten free, you will find it all below. Also make sure to check out the where to stay section, as there is one hotel in there which made all of my GF dreams come true. If you are looking for some specific restaurants, then check out my Kuta and Malang gluten free guides, or check out this surfer’s guide to Bali and my Gili Trawangan guide, which have some tips on how to travel Indonesia gluten free as well.
How to Get to Indonesia
There are several ways to reach Indonesia from around the world, but flying remains the easiest and most common option. Most islands have either international or domestic airports, and you can easily travel between them by ferry. I always use Skyscanner to find the best routes and cheapest flights, which is exactly how we booked our tickets from Surabaya to Lombok.
If you’re coming from Malaysia and plan to visit Sumatra, you can also travel by sea. Ferries run between Port Dickson, near Kuala Lumpur, and Tanjung Balai port on Sumatra, taking roughly six hours. For a detailed account of this route, check out Whirled Away’s blog on how they planned their trip.
Some travelers have attempted the journey between the Philippines and Borneo by boat, but I would not recommend it to anyone. Piracy and trafficking are still major concerns in the Sulu and Celebes Seas, so it is far safer to fly from Manila to one of Indonesia’s major cities instead.
Where to Stay in Indonesia
With over 13,000 islands and so many possible itineraries, telling you where to stay seems counterintuitive. The country has so many great hotels, resorts and hostels, that picking one can be daunting. I am of course not an expert on the entire country, but I had a couple of great experiences on Java, Bali and Lombok. For these islands, I wrote a where to stay guide with all my favorite hotels and more, so you can get started with planning your trip. I have listed my three favorites below.
The Shalimar in Malang, Java, is a great activity in itself, especially when it comes to food. Their Javanese breakfast is delicious and the hotel tells the story of Indonesian independence after Dutch colonial rule. Besides, their rooms are spacious and comfortable, and they offer spa treatments as well.
Another favorite of mine is the El Tropico in Kuta, Lombok. This place was not only well-designed with its massive rooms and two pools, but also was the best hotel we visited regarding gluten free breakfast. There were gluten free pancakes, toast and bowls for me to try each morning, which made our stay extra special. If you are planning on staying in Senggigi on Lombok’s west coast, then you must stay at Puri Mas. This resort also offers spa treatments and has a pool that faces the sea, while being only a five-minute drive from downtown Senggigi.
How to Get Around
There are plenty of ways to travel around Indonesia. While flying between islands is an option, most people prefer taking the ferry. One of the most popular routes is the one connecting Bali and Lombok via the Gili Islands, which you can book here, but you can reach almost any island by boat. I usually check Klook and 12Go to compare routes and book tickets ahead of time.
On certain islands, you can also travel by train. Java, for example, has an extensive railway network that connects the island from end to end. Wessel and I used it to get from Yogyakarta to Malang, which was an amazing way to see more of the country without leaving your seat. Sumatra, Sulawesi, and Papua also have a few lines worth trying. Train tickets tend to sell out quickly though, so book your tickets in advance. We booked our tickets through Traveloka, an official reseller, which was super easy and hassle free. If there are no trains, buses are a reliable alternative. You can check with Klook and 12Go for cheap tickets and the best routes.
For shorter trips, Grab, which is Southeast Asia’s version of Uber, is the easiest choice. It does require mobile data, so we used Airalo during our trip to stay connected. The eSIM was affordable, simple to set up, and worked seamlessly across Indonesia. It saved us multiple trips to the phone store for a sim-card, so I could not recommend it enough
If you are planning to stay in one place for a while, renting a motorbike can be a better option. We rented one in Kuta, Lombok, where rental shops are plentiful. You will need a valid license and insurance, however, so make sure to take care of that before your trip. If this sounds great to you, then make sure to read my guide on how to rent a motorbike as well.
Which Island is Best for Gluten Free Travelers
I have written about the bad side of tourism in my recent Bali surf camp guide and this Instagram post. In each I explain how tourism, especially mass tourism in Global Southern destinations, can cause new forms of neo-colonial practices. Think segregation between locals and travelers due to the myriad hotels and restaurants owned by Global Northerners. A key example of this was Uluwatu on Bali, where locals and digital nomads live very different lives.
The thing that irks me the most about this statement, is that this also means these destinations are often the easiest to travel to for gluten free travelers. Uluwatu was one of the best places for GF food during our trip, with western-oriented Suka Espresso being a dream for my tummy. Similarly, El Tropico Boutique Hotel and Kuta Lombok in general were very accommodating when it came to gluten free food. While Kuta Lombok has not reached the same levels of neo-colonialism and gentrification as Uluwatu, with multiple expensive apartment blocks catered to Global Northern immigrants springing up like mushrooms, it is quickly following in its footsteps.
This observation and the need to travel more consciously, ethically and sustainably, can put gluten free travelers into a tough situation. While I hope you will venture beyond the main hotspots using my tips below, I still think it is possible to visit places like Uluwatu and Kuta and leave a positive impact. You could for example choose to stay at a locally owned homestays and join tours run by locals, while you do visit places that offer gluten free food. In no instance would I recommend you jeopardize your own safety for the greater good, as you can only do good when you are taking care of yourself.
Tips for Traveling Around Indonesia While Gluten Free
With these tips you will be able to navigate Indonesia with relative ease. If you are celiac, do not skip any of these, as they are vital when it comes to your safety. For gluten intolerant travelers like me, be conscious when skimping over cross-contamination issues and always double check the ingredients as recipes might contain more gluten than you think.
1. Bring a Gluten Free Travel Card
My number one tip for any destination is to bring a gluten free travel card. These cards explain what products to avoid and the health implications of eating gluten. The people behind Coeliac Travel created these cards so you can give them to the waiter who will take it to the kitchen. This way very little gets lost in translation. Download their Bahasa travel card and keep it with you at all times. Combined with the following tips, you can create a fool-proof holiday.
2. Watch Out for Soy, Fish and Oyster Sauce
Soy, fish and oyster sauce are tastemakers that cannot be seen separately from the Indonesian kitchen and most South-East Asian countries. While this makes the country’s food so delicious, gluten intolerant people will know guessing whether these sauces are gluten free is much like Russian roulette. A good rule of thumb is therefore to ask the kitchen what brand of sauce they are using and if you can see the packages. The latter can be very helpful, as some versions are marked gluten free. It can still be a risk, though, so if you have any doubts, skip the sauce all together
3. Skip the Fried Onions
This one is a tricky one, as most restaurants love to cover everything in fried onions. Most of the time, these are chopped and then directly fried in oil, but some recipes do contain breadcrumbs. To be on the safe side, skip them all together. If you love your onions, however, then you could always ask the kitchen and show them your gluten free travel card.
4. Watch out for Peanut Sauce
Peanut sauce, also known as satay sauce or sambal kacang, is widely used to smother gado gado, satay and other types of grilled meat. Unless you are ordering a patatje oorlog in the Netherlands, the sauce is traditionally made without some sort of thickener. It does often contain kecap manis, however, which is sweet soy sauce and thus may contain gluten. While peanut sauce is heavenly, always double check with the kitchen before eating.
5. Do Your Research!
The internet is your best friend when it comes to planning a gluten free trip to Indonesia. My guides on Kuta and Malang and this gluten free Indonesia guide are a good start, but if you are planning a different route, I suggest using Google Maps. While most restaurants do not name themselves ‘gluten free’, their reviews are a gold mine for gluten free travelers. First, look at the map and select the restaurants that pop-up. Next, click on their review section and type ‘gluten free’ or ‘coeliac’ in the search bar. All reviews by people with similar diets will pop up and tell you whether the place is worth it.
6. Be Aware of Cross-Contamination
Most local warungs have small kitchens, making cross-contamination the biggest challenge for coeliacs. Besides, it is by far the most difficult thing to communicate, as it is not mentioned on your gluten free travel card. If cross-contamination is an issue for you, then try and learn some basic Bahasa words, like kontaminasi silang, the literal translation of cross-contamination. If you are unsure whether the chef understands you, you can show them this post which includes a small section on gluten cross-contamination.
A List of Relatively Safe Foods
Do not let the tips above scare you: there are still plenty of dishes that are generally naturally gluten free. The dishes listed below must still be double-checked using your gluten free card, but will hopefully give you some peace of mind regarding your culinary experience.
Breakfast
- Omelets are quite a popular breakfast option at most hotels. Ask them to cook it separately instead of taking it from the buffet, where cross-contamination might occur.
- Fresh fruit with yoghurt or chia pudding might not be traditionally Indonesian, but are served at most mid-range hotels.
- Rice porridge or bubur was my favorite breakfast option in Indonesia, which can be made savory or sweet. The most common savory option is called bubur ayam as it is typically served with chicken, while the sweet comes as black rice porridge known as bubur ketan hitam, sweet coconut porridge known as bubur sumsum, and many more.
- Abuk-abuk, Lupis and kue putu (also known as putu ayu) are pastries served as dessert, but I love a sweet breakfast and would eat these in the mornings. All three are generally made of tapioca/sago and rice flour, with sweeteners and fillings like brown bean paste and chocolate and then steamed. Absolutely delicious!
Lunch and dinner
- White rice – this one is obvious and a good yet bland back-up option when you can find nothing to eat.
- Capcay without sauce – this dish consists of stir-fried vegetables usually covered in sauce containing soy, fish or oyster sauce. Order the capcay without sauce to be safe, or use any of my other tips.
- Grilled Ayam (chicken) – this dish usually contains nothing more than chicken and a couple of spices.
- Nasi Goreng (fried rice) is usually made with soy sauce, but as it is made on the spot, this can easily be left out of the mix.
- While not naturally gluten free due to the use of soy sauce and the like, you must try to find some gluten free Beef Rendang. This coconut curry is my absolute favorite and cannot be missed on your Indonesia trip.
Final Thoughts on Traveling Indonesia Gluten Free
Indonesia was not the easiest place to travel to as a gluten free traveler, but doable. If you are gluten intolerant like me, chances are you will not run into many heavy issues. For coeliacs it is a little harder, but manageable with some creativity. I know it can be hard sometimes to vouch for your own needs but never settle for something when it does not feel right. There will always be more restaurants to try.
If you are ready to look at some great restaurants that serve gluten free options, then check out my guides on Malang and Kuta, as well as some of my tips in my other Indonesia travel guides. To keep up to date with my latest travel news, sign up to my newsletter or follow me on Instagram, where I share gluten free and sustainable travel tips every other day.
