The island of beauty is known for its dramatic landscape and increasingly for its wine culture. While there are numerous blogs telling you what to do on Corsica, including my East Corsica guide and my 3-week Corsica itinerary, there are few gluten free Corsica guides out there. And the truth is: eating gluten free on Corsica can be hard and frustrating, which is why writing such a guide may seem daunting.
As a gluten intolerant traveler, as opposed to a celiac traveler, I was able to pick and choose dishes at restaurants without gluten as an ingredient. However, during my time there I did realize you have to be extra vigilant while eating out: desserts marked as gluten free can suddenly have cookie crumble on top, or soups are bound with wheat starch. I created this gluten free Corsica guide so you will not have to scramble anytime you sit down at a restaurant. From my own experience to what type of accommodation to book and the ultimate list of gluten free restaurants: I have got you covered.
My Gluten Free Corsica Experience
My gluten free Corsica experience was not the easiest: finding restaurants on the island that served gluten free food was difficult, as was finally choosing something from the menu when you did find a place. These dishes often contained gluten without it being mentioned on the menu, for example.
Which is why I was super happy we booked our own chalet for the week. Here we could cook ourselves, and shop for gluten free stuff at one of the bigger supermarkets on the island. Booking accommodation with a kitchen is therefore one of my number one tips when traveling Corsica gluten free.
We did however have lunch and dinner at two amazing restaurants. Although they were not dedicated gluten free, we could find plenty of options here to eat. The first was Café La Marine in Porto-Vecchio, where we ordered some delicious sushi rolls for lunch.
But my all-time favorite restaurant is Aux Coquillages de Diana, a seafood restaurant built over the Étang de Diane. While the ambiance and views are stunning, the fresh seafood is to die for. The only unfortunate thing here was the cookie crumble on top of the chocolate mousse, which was not mentioned on the menu, and which brings me to my final key tip: never expect anything to be gluten free, always ask, and you will be fine.
How to Get to and Around Corsica
There are two ways to get to Corsica: by ferry or by plane. The first option is the longest, but the most fun one in my opinion, as you can roadtrip all the way to the port from wherever you are in Europe. Multiple ferries leave daily during summer from Savona, Genua, Livorno and Piombino in Italy and Marseille, Toulon and Nice in France to Bastia, Ajaccio, l’Île-Rousse and Porto-Vecchio on Corsica. Two major companies operate from these ports, Corsica Ferries, or Moby Lines. While the latter has looney Tune themed boats, the first tends to be a little cheaper. Check your dates and route here.
Tip! Read my 3 week Corsica itinerary to craft the ultimate roadtrip
Another option is to book a plane ticket, which we usually do through Skyscanner. Corsica has four airports, Ajaccio, Bastia, Calvi and Figari, which you can fly to from nearly anywhere in the world. Once you land, I do recommend renting a car, however, as Corsica’s public transport will not get you to all of the places you would want to go. DiscoverCars always has the best rates, in my opinion, and is a great tool to compare local car rental companies. When you do, consider an automatic vehicle, as the island’s roads are often narrow and steep. Unless you are a confident manual driver, of course.
Where to Stay on Corsica While Gluten Free
As I have mentioned before: the safest thing to do while traveling on Corsica while gluten free, is to book an apartment or house with a kitchen. The larger supermarkets tend to have a good selection of gluten free products, so staying near a village or city is your best bet of finding whatever you need. You can find great apartments anywhere, like Oro Biancu, which’ bohemian apartments overlook the beach while being close to Bastia as well.
Tip! Read my full guide on East Corsica to get inspiration on what to do besides eat gluten free food.
However, if you prefer to stay in luxury and do not like to cook your own food on holiday, then these three hotels must be on your bucket list. If you fly into Porto-Vecchio, then your first stop must be Domaine de Casanghjulina. Here you can stay in a tree house and even bathe outdoors amidst the trees. Dominique Colonna in Corte also offers immersive nature views and experiences, but amidst the mountains surrounding one of the island’s most stunning cities. Prefer the seaside and good wine? Then stay at Hôtel la Dimora near Saint-Florent and Patrimonio, located in a farmhouse turned spa hotel and restaurant destination.
French Gluten Free Celiac Card
While most people in restaurants and hotels speak English, communicating your dietary needs can still be hard. That is why carrying a French celiac restaurant card with you is a must. Download this one and take it everywhere, so you know people will understand your needs exactly. Still, there are some Corsican delicacies and restaurants that are gluten free, which I have listed for you below.
Gluten Free Corsican Dishes
As a gluten free foodie, one of my favorite things to do while traveling is trying as much local food as possible. However, this often gets tricky in certain parts of the world where they seem to love bread, including Corsica. As a part of France, it will be harder for you to find gluten free croissants and baguettes here, but the island does have a wide range of local Corsican products that are naturally gluten free (most of the time). A word of caution though: always check to make sure you do not get glutened.
Gluten Free Corsican ‘Snacks’
You can find most naturally gluten free options in the snack category. The island produces lots of dried meat and cheeses, meaning you can have a nice GF charcuterie and cheese board every day. The most typical types of charcuterie are figatellu, coppa and lonzo, while the most famous cheese you will find is brocciu. This cheese can be found in many different forms: soft and fresh, or hard and matured. Mostly made from sheep’s and goat’s milk, this cheese is similar to ricotta and often used in omelets, beignets and other baked goodies.
Other well-known Corsican cheeses are the fleur de maquis or brin d’amour, and niolo. The first one is made of sheep’s milk and includes herbs from the maquis, Corsica’s low shrubland that carries an aromatic smell. The cheese itself is often creamy, and the taste can be nutty and herby. Niolo is also made of sheep and creamy but has a bit of a stronger taste.
Gluten Free Corsican Pastries and Dessert
While not typically Corsican, as they are made throughout France, galettes are a great option for gluten free travelers. These pancakes can be savory or sweet and are typically made of buckwheat flour – Sarassin in French. Some places do offer galettes with a Corsican twist, namely when they are made of chestnut (Châtaigne), another Corsican staple. Look out for chestnut cake as well, as they can be gluten free.
Borrowing from the snack category, brocciu cheese is also used in the Corsican cheesecake fiadone, which is naturally gluten free. While wheat might be used, typically, the cake is just made of brocciu, lemon zest, liquor and eggs. If you see it on the menu somewhere, make sure to show the kitchen your gluten free travel card and (hopefully) enjoy this Corsican delight.
Another pastry that is sometimes made of chestnut flour, and other times of wheat flour, is Fritelli. These Corsican doughnuts can be sweet and savory but finding gluten free ones can be a bit of a hit and miss. Lastly, drizzle honey on everything and bring some home with you, as Corsica, besides its wine AOP’s, has specific appellations for six different types of honey as well.
Corsican Gluten Free Dishes
Finally, there are a couple of Corsican gluten free dishes that you can often find at restaurants. First of all, seafood on Corsica is phenomenal, and the purer you eat it, the bigger the chance your order will be gluten free.
Three Corsican recipes you have to try – if you are not vegetarian – are civet de sanglier, veaux au olives and agneau corse. Civet de sanglier is a wild boar stew that is similar to beef bourguignon and often contains chestnuts as well. Veaux au olives is a stew as well, but much lighter than the first. Literally veal with olives, it is a simple dish that is great for both a sunny afternoon and a rainy evening. The last one, agneau Corse, is a typical Corsican lamb stew with rosemary, potatoes and garlic, and should not be skipped.
In all of these you will find olive oil, which is also grown in many areas on the island. Check out my wine tasting guide to Corsica to figure out which vineyards have olive groves as well.
The Gluten Free Corsica Restaurant List
While we did not visit any restaurants besides Café La Marine and Aux Coquillages de Diana, I have searched the internet for hours reading every review I could find. This led me to write the following shortlist of restaurants said to be accommodating to gluten free travelers. This list covers restaurants in Bastia, Porto-Vecchio, Calvi, Ajaccio, L’Île-Rousse and Bonifacio, which means you got a few spots to try anywhere you go on the island. As always, check with the restaurant yourself to ensure maximum safety.
Gluten Free Restaurants in Bastia
- COMO Cucina Healthy Vg – granted, this one has mixed reviews. Some people with celiac’s disease had a wonderful time here, while others did suffer from cross-contamination. For those with a gluten intolerance or sensitivity that also eat vegetarian, it is a wonderful option however.
- My Time Gluten Free – not a restaurant, but a gluten free supermarket in Bastia. Here, you can get everything you need! Fly into Bastia to buy enough for the rest of your trip.
Tip! Book a guided food tour while you are in Bastia, but do contact them beforehand!
Gluten Free Restaurants in Porto-Vecchio
- Restaurant Furana is said to have some gluten free traditional Corsican dishes. Call ahead, however, to be absolutely sure your needs can be met.
- Restaurant Guest offers gluten free hamburgers and other GF options as well! Their burgers get amazing reviews, so make sure to put this one on your list when visiting the city.
- La Gelateria by L’ Art de la Glace – this ice cream store might not be dedicated gluten free, but it is said to have gluten free cones.
Tip! Try this sailing trip that includes Corsican delicacies while in Porto-Vecchio.
Gluten Free Restaurants in Calvi
- Complètement Givrés – This place serves American-Corsican fusion and has a gluten free option for everything on their menu. The restaurant is closed now, however, but seems to open again in summer.
- Le Concept – this place has some amazing reviews by celiac travelers, and there is even mention of a dedicated fryer.
- A Piazzetta – this restaurant is said to be very accommodating when it comes to gluten free travelers. They have several traditional Corsican dishes on their menu and are located on a quaint square in Calvi.
Tip! Combine your stay in Calvi with a wine tasting tour, or craft your own using my guide.
Gluten Free Restaurants in Ajaccio
- Marché d’Ajaccio is not a restaurant, but a market. According to multiple reviews on FindMeGlutenFree this place also hosts a gluten free baker a couple of days a week. If you are there and find her, please send me some pictures of these baked goodies!
- Restaurant A Merendella Citadina – while this place is not a dedicated gluten free establishment, it is a lovely family bistro where you can get Corsican staples and delicious seafood. The reviews are great, with the staff seeming to be very understanding to people with celiac’s disease.
- L’Amirauté Chez Rita – three words: gluten free pizza. You know I am obsessed with gluten free pizza, hence this Amsterdam article, which is why this restaurant seems to be a must-visit when in Ajaccio!
Tip! Book a wine tasting tour on a sail boat.
Gluten Free Restaurants in L’Île-Rousse
- At Flagrant Délice you can get gluten free galettes which are vegetarian too! Not an easy combination to find on Corsica.
- Burger & The Juice – this restaurant in l’Île-Rousse is the perfect finish line after a day of exploring. With gluten free pizza crusts, pasta and hamburgers, you will be spoiled for choice.
Tip! L’Île-Rousse is known for its special coast line, which is why you must book a boat trip here.
Gluten Free Restaurants in Bonifacio
- Glacier Le Rocca-Serra – According to FindMeGlutenFree this ice cream shop is dedicated gluten free. With GF cones and waffles, this is the perfect refreshment after a day of exploring.
- Restaurant Aria Nova – Multiple reviews state that Restaurant Aria Nova in Bonifacio is incredibly knowledgeable about celiac disease, and offers gluten free pasta and bread besides their regular dishes. Here, you can get typical Corsican cuisine and seafood.
Tip! Bonifacio is full of history, which is why booking a guided historical tour is a must.
Final Thoughts
Corsica is not the easiest destination for celiacs and gluten free travelers, but it is doable. You should never let anything hinder your travels if that is what you crave to do, and hopefully this guide alleviated some of the pre-trip planning stress. Let me know in the comments what Corsican dish you are most excited about.
In the meantime, read up on all of my other Corsica guides, like my wine tasting guide, East Corsica travel guide and my 3 week Corsica itinerary. One more Corsica blog is coming, so keep your eyes on my Instagram or sign up to my newsletter to get the latest gluten free travel news.
